News

31/01/2019

Beauty & Personal Care Trends for 2019

What’s Happening in Africa?

Africa is the next frontier; of that, there can be little doubt.  Many multi-nationals, institutes and entrepreneurs are already seeking to see how they may be able to take advantage of the opportunities that are on the continent. The key challenges facing many companies are the uncertainties with the economic and political environment. Unstable and heterogenous regulatory regimes are hard to understand for companies investing in new markets.

Cosmetics and Personal Care is one sector that is growing, fuelled by burgeoning middle classes with greater spending power. Sub-Saharan Africa, South Africa and Nigeria are the biggest markets in the beauty and cosmetic industry, with revenues of $6 billion combined. A traditional association with reliability and quality means demand for international products remains strong in this region. However, local brands in several African countries are making strong gains. More people are understanding the benefits of supporting local manufacturing, provided the products themselves meet customer expectations of quality, robustness and affordability.

What is Up in Lusaka?

NATURAL HAIR 

According to hair salon owners and hairdressers, there has been an estimated 70% growth in consumers changing from relaxed hair to natural hair in the past two years. This is happening across all age groups. As well as it becoming more in vogue per se to have a more natural look, there is a feeling among customers that products for relaxing have changed and become too strong. We expect to see this direction sustain in 2019.

RELAXERS

Despite the above, there remains a clear majority that still relaxes their hair. The majority of hair salons have in- house relaxers, but also say that many of their clients bring their own relaxers to the salon. The most common relaxers are; Olive oil, Soft & Sheen, Ultra Sheen and Dark & Lovely.  A few hair salons such as Crown SPA at East Park Mall offer alternative relaxers, such Mizani relaxer and Vanilla Hair Salon in Arcades that offer Salon Fuels as their in house relaxer. It will be interesting to see how products such as Mizani or Salon Fuels will perform in 2019.

DYING / COLOURING

HAIR POMADE

A similar pattern emerged here as with dying/colouring; although there are vast numbers of hair pomade in several outlets in Lusaka, the types of pomade being used in salons tended to be fairly standard, whether in compound, market or suburb. We found it especially positive to see the widespread use, particularly in compounds and markets, of the Zambian product Petroleum Jelly Soft Touch. The top three hair pomades that are being used were Blue Magic, Dax and Petroleum Jelly Soft Touch.

MASSAGES

In the spa arena, which is experiencing particularly strong growth in Lusaka, massages are the most popular treatments. As is often the case in an expanding industry, there are wide variations in customer environment; while some are very well kept, others have much to do in terms of service and ambience. From the spa’s that we surveyed, we saw that they mostly offered the same type of massages, which are Aromatherapy, Deep Tissue, Swedish, Hot Stone, and Ukuchina. The prices across establishments were reasonably aligned, meaning basically you have similar prices everywhere. This is a trend that we are keeping a close eye on as the sector grows.

FACIALS

Demand here has remained steady, with only slight increases witnessed across a small number of places. Facials remain also primarily a pursuit of the more affluent Zambians, where it is very popular; many ordinary Zambians can’t afford to have a monthly facial. The services that we encountered are also more or less the same. They are Cleansing, Mask, Toning and Steaming. Products being used are mainly imported, and it is to be hoped that some consumers will change and switch to Zambian products.

SHAMPOO

It was encouraging to see that many hair salons use Zambian products here, with Joy and Tina Shampoo featuring among the top three most commonly used. The top non-Zambian product is Olive Oil.

NAILS

The nail service has now become more affordable over the past five years; commonly, owners rent chairs out in their hair salons for nail technicians to offer their services and in turn, the technicians bring in their clients. Most technicians will offer common types of nail services such as Gel nail, Acrylic and Tips, with the most frequently used brand being Planet Nails. Other techniques such as Gel Build and Acrylic Extensions are readily found but not as common. Trends in terms of colours were difficult to pin down; colours such as reds and nudes were increasing, but it remains as yet too soon to judge. A small number of salons have an authentic nail polish from well-known brands such as Shellac, OPI, Essie etc, and one can also find the odd colour from these brands in various establishments. When you do find these known brands it tends to be in the suburban areas, and you will immediately know they are authentic due to the price tag.

BRAIDING & HAIR EXTENSIONS

Our main motivation in this area was to find out more on what types of hairstyles are in vogue in the Lusaka region. We found that Mukele demands are on the rise and that the most frequently requested styles are Fish Tale, Box Braids, Ordinary Mukele and Double Braids. We think the demand correlates with many switching from relaxed hair to natural hair.
In terms of hair extension, the market for both synthetic and human hair business is saturated and we think the need for both types of the extension will, for now, remain trending in the foreseeable future. This is because it taps into our culture; we see, for example, mothers taking their little girls at an early age of 2 years old to have cornrows which are sometimes mixed with synthetic hair, with beads, making them look so adorable. Basically, the girls start at an early age, and from that point on,

it is embedded in us.
We have also seen an increase in wig making. According to hair salons and hairdressers, many customers make wigs with human hair rather than synthetic hair. This has been an ongoing trend, and it’s becoming quite normal to have a few wigs in your closet. This is due to economic reasons and again correlates with many opting for their natural hair, the wig being utilised as a cover-up in order to grow their natural hair and to have a choice to pick when the individual feels like she wants a change of look.

So What Are The Trends Around The World?

Trend report 2019

SUSTAINABILITY  & NO WASTE

Our generation is a one where information is at our fingertips. When it comes to climate change, the overwhelmingly accepted body of scientific evidence points to the planet undergoing serious damage, for both developed and developing parts of the world.
With some governments or authorities around the globe not fully engaging in the fight, this has in some ways given the torch to the consumers to deal with it personally. The consumers demand products that are eco- friendly, safe and effective, and in turn companies and manufacturers have new challenges to meet consumers demands.

In a nutshell, it’s all about ethical practices across the supply chain ensuring that the beauty industry uses materials responsibly, treats consumers and the planet with respect and limits or even eliminates waste. As for waste itself, a bigger and bolder approach is needed to tackle zero-waste mentality in industry, and some say this is not only a trend, it’s a movement. Some companies are already talking about getting rid of packaging from the equation altogether. Smaller brands have a huge advantage with this because many of them start with environmental policies from the get-go and therefore have a stronger and more aggressive viewpoint on this issue. On the other hand, the bigger brands will need to get ahead of the conversation, make significant and notable changes, and be at the forefront of the movement.

PLEDGES MADE

Unilever and L’ Oreal have pledged to use 100% recyclable, reusable and compostable plastic by 2025. Procter & Gamble have committed to introducing 25% plastic across 500 million hair care bottles by 2018. Avon has already achieved 95% of its goal to send zero waste to landfills.

In 2018 China banned 24 types of imported waste and stopped accepting all waste that was previously sent there for disposal.

If companies do not start now changing their way of doing things in terms of using material responsibly and adhere the call to adhere to take care of the planet, these companies will not be around in the near future. Consumers especially in the developed countries are very concise about the environment and are therefore attracted to companies that have an ethical approach in their whole business and manufacturing process.

To continue reading the rest of our trend report you can download the link below.

BeautyWorldZambia TrendReport 2019


 

19/08/2018

Africa Rising

The question is: Is Africa the next big thing in beauty?

So why are they getting more interested with Africa as each year passes by? This is because of the growing middle class that keeps rising .Hence, cosmetics companies are busy on how to approach the continent.

So far, this is what they have acknowledged; That Africa cannot be approached as a whole, it needs to be broken down country by country due to the complexity of each country, economic and political uncertainties as well as regulatory difficulties.

They have also realised that most African countries have no regulations on cosmetics, which further more leads to starting from scratch in some African countries.

Therefore European Cosmetics has lay down main objectives to work closely with some African countries authorities. And these are:

  1. Consumer safety as priority.
  2. Allow EU industry to rely on a regulatory system aligned with international practices.
  3. Encourage local manufactures to progressively adopt best practices.
  4. By meeting the requirements, stimulate their exports at international level.

Source: Cosmetic Design

07/08/2018

 

Avon goes digital

Avon goes digital

 

This is an effort to rebrand itself for todays consumers.  The company hopes to move digital brochures in 12 countries.

 

’We are working intensively to build the right tools to support our 6 million strong network beauty entrepreneurs to help them provide a personal service to their customers that is underpinned by strong digital capabilities’’ says Jan Zijderveld, Avon CEO.

08/01/2018

Beauty Trends of 2018

By Sandra Leribaux

This is our first publication of Beauty Trends. We are excited to share with you what the global projections are for the personal care and cosmetic industry for 2018. From what we have seen in 2017, we believe that we can safely predict the trends that will be significant in 2018. We want to ensure that our followers are aware of the new and exciting changes that will be coming up globally. So here is our take of the beauty market.

Download our publication here : Beauty World Zambia Beauty Trends of 2018

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A glimpse of Beauty Trends

 

 

 Ajali Handmade Natural.  It is a 100% natural beauty product range crafted in Nigeri

GENEVIEVE-BEAUTY-AWARDS_Valerie-Obasi-R-R-Luxury-Louisa-Kinoshi-Beauty-Rev-NG-and-Ifeyinwa-Ojekwe-Ajali-Handmade-Naturals-_19_bellanaija

A glimpse of Beauty Trends 2018

Nigeria stood out in 2017 due to the product called Ajali Handmade Natural. Their product has been able to capture international interest. Well done to the ladies

Bull dog

A glimpse of Beauty Trends 2018

 

Male Grooming

 

Google research has picked out male grooming as one the 4 key trends for the industry to watch. This is especially for men’s skincare especially in the following countries Japan, France and the US.

31/01/2019

Beauty & Personal Care Trends for 2019

By Sandra Leribaux

 

 

 

 

 

 

2018 saw our first Trend Analysis, so is perhaps instructive now to consider how our predictions fared as well as how products, ideas and concepts developed and shifted.

This industry is vast, ever-changing and expanding, answering to demands from all the different types of consumers that exist across the globe that want safe, ethical and high-quality products for their own wellbeing.

Beauty World Magazine™ has monitored, throughout the year, the major shifts in attitudes and approaches within the industry in tackling the global environmental issue that is upon us all.  Consumers, organisations and manufacturers are all gearing up to make sure that their products are being produced ethically. We hope that this edition of our Trend Report will help guide you in your decision making. Happy reading!

What is Up in Lusaka?

In our first trend report of 2018, we mentioned that we will have more detail about our beloved country, Zambia.  Our research was only done in Lusaka and we targeted both suburbs and compound areas to have fair view on what’s going on in the capital city in terms of personal care, beauty products and what the consumers are inclined to do and what habits have been adapted and anything that we can learn about the consumers traits.

UPCOMING BRANDS- PERSONAL CARE & COSMETICS

Majority of Zambian personal care brands are self-funded and because of which their products may not be seen in every retail or beauty store. We have seen several brands owned by Zambians or people who have made Zambia their home. It is quite frankly, good to see that this market is growing and its only growing because people do have a need for good personal care products and they, are going for local brands. We believe we will be seeing new products entering this market space. We have taken three examples of brands that we have encountered, although there are several in the market.

AWANE SKINCARE RANGE

We take Awane Skin Care based in Lusaka launched in 2018, a self-funded brand that caters to all aspects of skin health, hair care and oral hygiene sourcing the ingredients locally and from the African continent, this is a brand that is dedicated to using natural ingredients and some of the products are handmade.

ESSENTIAL SKIN CARE

Essential Skin Care is a luxurious Zambian brand based in Mazabuka. They have created a substantial number of products from the toner, eye cream, serum to moisturising all made in Zambia. They source their ingredients locally and also from the continent. They are passionate about the environment, planet and animals making it the centre of what they do and translating that to ensuring sustainability in harvesting, cruelty-free practices and Fairtrade practices to produce their amazing brand.

SWEK COSMETICS

Another example is SWEK, a cosmetic brand based in Lusaka. Known for their lipsticks, the colours and lipstick names are fantastic, to say the least. Many have praised the lipsticks and the brand has now added more products in their portfolios, such as the  Rainbow Pallet and Blush. Makeup artists in Zambia use the brand often and we hope the brand will one day go international.

 

 

MALE GROOMING IN LUSAKA

Trend report 2019

This was quite an interesting exploratory part of the survey. Overall many of the barber men didn’t really understand the real meaning of male grooming. They have a very negative approach to it and they immediately crush it and respond that Zambian men don’t groom. We asked several questions in all the different aspects of grooming, and we were able to give good examples to our interviewees to help them understand and in most cases, they did. We hope that their thought process has changed after our visit.

Do you clients ask to cut the hairs in your ears?

Men who ask for this service are mainly between 40-60 years old.

Do your clients ask to cut their hairs that stick out from your nose? 

Men who ask for this service are mainly between 40-60 years old.

Do your clients ask to shape their eyebrows?

While men who ask for this service are mainly between 18-30 years old.

Men requesting these services are less frequent in markets and compounds, but reasonably common in suburbs.

Zambian men do groom. The answer is an overwhelming YES!

MENS HAIR  & AFTERSHAVE TRENDS

According to the barbershops in Lusaka, these are the men’s hairstyles that are trending.

FOR MILLENNIALS :

English, Potato and French cut.

FOR MIDDLE-AGED MEN (40-60) :

Bold, Brush and English cut.

 SHAMPOO

Easy Wavy and Tina shampoo are most used in barbershops.

AFTERSHAVE

Freshman, Bump Control and Spirit are the commonly most used in barbershops.

WELLNESS & SPA

In the wellness, spa or hairdresser’s establishments that offer barber services, you tend to find that men tend to do their nails, pedicures and massages. Massages are the biggest sellers in the wellness categories.
Facials are done but they are not as popular as the massages or nails. The men are offered the same facial services as the women, but they do not offer specific male products. According to the spas, Zambian men are not picky at all about the products they use on their face or body.
Facial and body products still have a long way to go for the Male grooming market in Zambia. We will be monitoring this segment on a yearly base to see if there is any movement of growth.

So What Are The Trends Around The World?

Trend report 2019

MICROBIOME

This was the biggest trend in 2018 by far. It has been everywhere in both ingredients and formulation players pushing their expertise in this area, including a number of brands also coming into this market, particularly Indie brands from Europe and North America. In 2019, we expect to see launches of more ingredients and beauty brands targeting this market, which will raise the profile of this niche even more.

MENS GROOMING

To continue reading the rest of our trend report you can download the link below.

BeautyWorldZambia TrendReport 2019


 

26/08/2018

You can use your dogs hair to make tattoo ink

I know tattooing is not really a thing in  Zambia but you must give credit to creativity.

SKIN46 is a company that can extract clean carbon from  human and animal hair and is able to turn into ink for tattooing. Let’s see how this ventures will go.

Check out their website ! https://www.skin46.com/

13/08/2018

Dove : No more photoshop !

Dove : No more photoshop !

 

The brand is known for promoting healthy attitudes to appearance and bodies.  They have now announced ‘ A no digital distortion initiative’ Dove will add a watermark to all untouched promotional dove photos by 2019. No more photoshop!

 

The mark will help women identify reality and relieve some of the pressures to look a certain way and it is another way to encourage other brands to follow suit, we are hoping more brands join us in this movement, as this commitment needs to be widespread” say  Sophie Galvini, global vice president of Dove.

 

 

I think this is good news, the models and celebrities really give many consumers stress on how good they look, and in turn we want to look just as good as them. But in fact they photoshop a lot of their photos to make them look perfect.  We at BWZ think, its about time this is happening!

What do you think?

06/08/2018

 

Green & Clean : Going green in shaving

Green & Clean : Going green in shaving

By Sandra Leribaux

 

 

Remember the UK Male Grooming brand called Bull Dog that was making the trends last year in 2017 (Check out our Beauty Trends of 2018).

Bull Dog have come up with a new concept, ‘Ethical Shaving’. Yes, ethical!

They have come up with a sustainable bamboo razor. It’s made of bamboo and its full replaceable. This is an alternative to cheap disposable razors. Many companies are trying to reinvent themselves, as society is becoming more environmentally conscious.
So do you think this will attract new buyers seeing that they are making the effort to be eco-friendly?

What does that even mean for the Zambian Market ?

 

 

What do you think?

 

 

Anyone interested in any Bull Dog products  in Zambia? Give us shout!

Source : Bulldog 

02/08/2018

Globally Aligned Beauty Industry

                                                                                             With political instability and trade war threatening

We look at  one of beauty and personal care industry leader, John Cave suggestions and perspective on the issue of instability, trade wars and issues that challenges the industry.

John Chave, Director-General Cosmetic Europe industry association represents the interest of the whole Europe Market.

He said in an interview with Cosmetic Design Europe recent Annual Conference ‘ Instability is a concern for any trading industry. What we want is a stable growing world, we want a rule based trade order,’ he says.

Having a globally aligned industry in Europe is very important, its not only multinationals that act globally, even SME participate in global compatibility. This is something that the association understands as highly important and necessary to continue. With all the efforts of aligning the industry , they have seen positive developments through the years.

China and India are not aligned with European markets but we can see that they are slowly moving in the right direction. We are seeing new regulations in India and new regulations is  being discussed Israel.

On the trade war issue, they are disappointed to be caught up in it. When Donald Trump, the American President announced tariffs on Aluminium and steel, the European Commission  included Cosmetics products in its retaliatory measures, which was approved on 22 June 2018. Canada has also included Cosmetic products as retaliatory measures.

To be caught up in this trade war, we don’t know how long this will last for, how fundamental  damage will be, this is a concern for all organisations whether a multinational or SMEs. We can only hope that this is a temporary situation.

In terms of challenges, John Chave  says that there is two principals that challenges the industry.

  1. To maintain as wide a palette of ingredient as we can possibly can
  2. Is linked to scientific and evidence based policy making.

Many in the industry know that the range of ingredients available has been reduced . Therefore we can’t innovate in same way as before due to restrictions of animal testing, in addition, because some of the classes of ingredients ( preservatives) have come under pressure.

Regarding the scientific and evidence based policy making, everyone is aware that our policy is RISK BASED REGULATIONS. Recently we have seen some stakeholders move towards HAZARD BASED APPROACH. Taking out the exposure element, which I think it’s a threat to our industry.

Our risk and evidence based approach is sound and has stood the test of time , it has now been challenged by emotions around issues less recourse to evidence than there was in the past. We know need to find ways to defend our evidence based philosophy .

Both issues are global concerns, what happens in Europe is in many ways a global issue because of the sophisticated  regulation, which is rather sophisticated than anywhere in the world- they look to Europe for leadership in this type of issues. So it’s fair to say what happens in Europe, has a global ramification.

Source: Cosmetics Design Europe